A buyer receives a fabric swatch, several lab dips, a print strike-off, and a PP garment sample. The reply comes back:

"Looks good. Approved."

From the buyer's side, that sounds efficient. From the factory side, it creates an immediate question: which item was approved?

Each object controls a different risk. A swatch helps select fabric quality, a lab dip addresses solid color, a print strike-off checks print execution, and a PP sample brings the components together. A reliable apparel sample approval process records them as separate decisions.

Fabric Swatch vs. Lab Dip vs. Strike-Off vs. PP Sample

The simplest comparison is to ask one question for each submission.

Each approval may unlock a different commitment, such as dyeing, printing, cutting, or sewing. The exact release point varies by order and should be written into the approval plan.

What Fabric Swatch Approval Actually Means

A fabric swatch is a cutting of an existing or proposed material. Buyers use it to review:

• Fiber composition and construction
• Surface texture and initial hand
• Weight and thickness
• Basic stretch
• General color direction

Swatch approval usually means, "This is the fabric quality I want to sample." It does not approve a custom color or prove that a later bulk lot matches.

This distinction appears even in formal testing. ASTM D3776/D3776M-20(2025) states that fabric-weight results obtained from a small swatch apply to the sample and not necessarily to the lot from which it came.

During fabric sourcing for clothing brands, label the swatch with its mill, article, composition, finished GSM, width, color, finish, date, and status. Retain a sealed copy for sample and bulk comparison.

What Lab Dip Approval Actually Means

A lab dip is a small laboratory-dyed fabric sample developed to approach a target solid color before bulk dyeing.

The substrate matters. A target can appear different on cotton jersey, polyester fleece, nylon stretch fabric, or rib because structure and finish affect the visible result. Tie the approval to one named fabric quality.

Visual comparison also needs controlled conditions. AATCC EP9-2025 provides a standardized procedure for visually comparing the color difference between a textile specimen and a reference standard.

A useful record identifies:

• Target color and physical or coded standard
• Fabric article and fiber composition
• Submission round and option, such as A, B, or C
• Viewing conditions or agreed light sources
• Comments, date, and authorized approver

Approving option B makes it the reference for the next agreed stage. It does not mean bulk dyeing will be identical or approve colorfastness, shrinkage, hand, or bulk shade variation.

For custom fabric development, the factory should compare the first bulk dye lot with the approved lab dip before cutting. Lab dip approval is a color decision, not a complete fabric approval.

What a Print Strike-Off Actually Means

The term "strike-off" is not used identically everywhere. Here, print strike-off means a trial print used to evaluate artwork before bulk printing.

The International Trade Centre's Source-it guide to clothing material sourcing distinguishes solid-color lab dips from strike-offs for printed or yarn-dyed fabrics and notes that a strike-off should include a full pattern repeat.

Depending on the print method, a strike-off can help approve:

• Artwork scale and repeat
• Print colors
• Registration and line detail
• Coverage and opacity
• Edge quality
• Print hand on the submitted fabric

Identify the substrate because a print can look and feel different on smooth jersey, fleece, rib, or performance fabric. Changing the fabric changes the evidence.

A print strike-off does not automatically approve placement on a sewn garment or wash durability. A PRINTING United workflow article recommends reviewing the first strike-off with the art approval and recording dimensions, color order, and location instructions (PRINTING United Alliance).

In custom apparel printing, approve the print panel first, then confirm scale and placement on the garment sample. Strike-off approval is print approval, not garment approval.

What PP Sample Approval Actually Means

PP means pre-production. However, the term does not mean every supplier includes the same details.

A PP sample should represent the intended production standard. Verify whether it includes:

• Actual bulk fabric and approved color
• Final trims, rib, elastic, labels, and thread
• Approved measurements and construction
• Final print or embroidery method and placement
• Intended garment wash or finishing
• Care label and branding details
• Packaging when packaging is part of the approval

Write any sample yardage, substitute trims, temporary labels, or unfinished packaging on the submission. A garment with substitutions is not a completely closed production standard.

The apparel sampling process should distinguish PP samples from prototypes and fit samples. A fit sample may use substitute fabric; the PP sample should demonstrate the production-intended materials and processes together.

The Bangladesh Skills for Employment Investment Programme's apparel merchandising guide lists sample comments, fabric color approvals, trim records, and print or embroidery strike-offs separately. This prevents a PP garment from hiding an unresolved component.

A PP sample inspection may release the agreed production stage, but bulk still requires in-line and final control.

The Correct Approval Sequence Depends on the Product

Not every style needs every submission.

Stock fabric may not require a lab dip, and a solid garment needs no print strike-off. Yarn-dyed, washed, sublimated, or seamless products may need other submissions.

For a custom-dyed printed garment, a typical sequence may be:

1. Approve the base fabric quality or swatch.
2. Approve the solid-color lab dip when applicable.
3. Confirm the first bulk fabric shade and material performance.
4. Approve the print strike-off on the intended substrate.
5. Review the print placement on a sewn sample.
6. Approve the PP sample with production-intended materials.
7. Continue garment quality control during bulk production.

The sequence should follow risk. A print approved on substitute white fabric is weak evidence for dark polyester. If fit is approved before final fabric arrives, check it again when production fabric behaves differently.

How Factories Should Record Apparel Sample Approval

From the factory side, the approval tracker should make ambiguity difficult.

For every submission, record:

• Style, colorway, and component
• Submission type and unique version
• Material or substrate used
• Date sent and date returned
• Status: approved, rejected, or resubmission required
• Exact buyer comments
• Name of the authorized approver
• Next production action released by that approval

"Approved with comments" deserves attention. If comments alter color, material, artwork, construction, measurements, or wash, the affected item may need resubmission. The factory should not guess.

For OEM clothing manufacturing, keep buyer and factory copies of critical physical approvals with dated digital records. Production and QC must know the current version before cutting or printing.

Final Takeaway

A disciplined apparel sample approval process does not ask whether "the samples" are approved. It asks exactly what object, version, substrate, color, and production decision have been approved.

• A fabric swatch approves a material direction or reference.
• A lab dip approves a solid-color option on a specific substrate.
• A print strike-off approves defined aspects of print execution.
• A PP sample approves the integrated garment standard described on its submission.

None of them replaces bulk material checks or production inspection.

Approval should release one clearly defined decision, not create permission for the factory to make assumptions.